![]() Place the point of the compass where you want the circle's centre to be and press in gently - you want the point to "bite" into the paper, without punching right through. The diameter of the circle is twice the radius. Don't forget, the distance point-to-point will determine the radius of the circle, the distance from centre to perimeter ("edge"). The compass Close the compass, and clamp in the pencil so that the point of the pencil meets the point of the compass. Lift the ruler, and admire your handiwork. Press lightly, or you will splinter or break the pencil's point, and carve an unwanted groove in the paper (which makes it hard to erase mistakes). To get the drawn line as close to the ruler as possible, the pencil should be held at 45 o to everything - to the ruler and the page. Hold the pencil in the traditional manner, but lightly, and further away from the point than usual. If you only press at one point, it is all too easy to pivot the ruler and draw a wonky line. Press firmly, but not so hard to turn your knuckles white. To draw a reliably-straight line, where you want it, position your ruler carefully, then spread your fingertips along it, keeping them away from the edge. The Ruler Believe it of not, I often hear the complaint "this ruler won't draw straight". Pencil lines on white paper are a pig to photograph, and the wide-angle setting on my new camera bends lines that do not cross directly through the centre of the image. I should also point out that some of the lines drawn in the photos look faint, curved or both. However, to show that a little care can produce useful results with any equipment, I invested all of 79p in the kit I used for this Instructable. My local stationer stocks a "pretty good" compass for 6.99GBP. You can spend tens of pounds on decent equipment. You will also find a sharpener and a rubber useful, even if you are competent with your tools. ![]() If you invest in a compass that does not hold a pencil, but instead holds a small piece of graphite, you will find a small piece of sandpaper useful for maintaining the bevelled point (and far cheaper than dedicated sharpeners). The best compasses are adjusted by means of a wheel on a screw-thread near the hinge, because these are least likely to slip. I prefer those compasses that have a knurled knob at the hinge, as they allow for a smooth, one-handed action. You need one that will hold your pencil firmly, does not have a loose hinge, and has a point - the "safe" compasses slip too easily. Any decent stationers will have a wide range to choose from. Not the magnetic kind, but the drawing kind. I prefer steel rulers, but as long as you avoid soft bendy rulers, you should be OK. In most of the world, these are referred to as "HB". Marker not included.For these simple projects, you will need: A pencil. All A+ Compass parts are interchangeable and additional beams may be purchased separately. The A+ Compass uses a wide variety of writing implements, from pencils to EXPO style markers and is outstanding for board, overhead, and desktop use. This precision math compass for drawing geometry constructions or circles/arcs is available in two beam lengths ( VIEW DETAILS). ![]() We guarantee your satisfaction- over 10,000 sold! You get greatly improved accuracy, speed and ease in changing settings and markers. Because the tip does not rotate and there is no horizontal force involved you DO NOT need a suction cup (which also obscures and erases the center) and you can enjoy all the other benefits. A+ Compass was developed for the educator, artist, or anyone else who needs to create accurate constructions.Īsk anyone who has used one! There is no comparison! The traditional scissors style compass can not compete with a beam style compass. ![]()
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